When searing lactic acid and the painful erosion of joint cartilage combine forces with agonizing seat sores and numbness of the extremities, what is left to propel a man forward? The answer: stubborn, furrow-browed, wild-eyed determination – the kind of which is normally reserved for rabid primates and Kentucky car salesmen. After only the first couple of hours on the trail it became painfully obvious that I needed a lot more practice before attempting a ride of this magnitude. Previously, my longest ride ever had been 20 miles on paved surfaces, whereas our bike ride was to be 335 miles. I had only even been on my bike 4 times this year, and had not even owned a bike until last fall. Yet here I was, punishing my virgin ass and blasting my unsuspecting quads on a monumental bike ride from Pittsburgh to Washington D.C. It was roughly akin to running a marathon with no training… but probably harder.
I decided to do this trip last year when my friend Joe mentioned in passing that he’d like to try it out. Joe is an experienced road and mountain biker, and is kind of mentoring me into the sport. We actually departed from McKeesport, just outside of Pittsburgh, on the Great Allegheny Passage with his friend and fellow cyclist, Jim. Both of them have ridden for years and been in countless races, both cyclo-cross and mountain biking. I quickly realized that I would not see much of them on this trip as I struggled just to make our rendezvous points without wilted body parts dropping from my drooping torso.
The GAP runs for 150 miles of mostly crushed limestone surfacing along former railroad corridors until it hits Cumberland, Maryland, and meets up with the C&O Towpath for another 185 miles into D.C. It hits several small towns, runs along the scenic Youghiogheny River, and rolls through vast tracts of beautiful forest. Since it follows railroad grades the climbs are not very steep. On the other hand, they can last for 20 miles or longer, with plenty of opportunity for weariness and fatigue along the gravelly path. The trail works its way over many bridges spanning huge valleys with stunning views, or alternately goes under railroad and freeway bridges, exposing their iron and concrete supports. There are a few tunnels as well, with a couple of them well over 3,000 feet long.
Day one saw the most road crossings and trail users (both local and thru bikers), as it was a sunny Saturday close to Pittsburgh. This day also had the most road crossings, however they were not as frequent as you might expect, and the vast majority of them were tiny rural routes with zero traffic. I diligently fed and watered myself at regular intervals, constantly lamenting the fact that I could not get the padding in my baggy, secondhand bike shorts with the safety-pinned fly to cover my butt. I could not believe how ragged I was feeling half way through the day with immense amounts of mileage yet to cover. It seemed a reasonable bet that I would not make this whole trip, but I pedaled on like a creaking automaton. I first reconnected with Joe and Jim at mile 15 or so since a large tree had come down across the path. They were hacking at the branches to people could get through. I could barely lift my bike loaded down with gear over the trunk. Happily I took a few minutes to rest before reluctantly getting back in the saddle. I met them once again at mile 50 or so for a much-needed break where I tried to mask my doubts and pains. From there I beat my way to our rendezvous at Confluence. I arrived into this tiny town without cell service at dusk and tried to lift my wooden leg over the bar without tearing up. My hind quarters had been brutally savaged. I could think of nothing I ever wanted to do less than sit on that bike seat again. Eventually I found Joe and he took me to the campsite they arranged. I set up my tent, cooked some vegetarian chili, and passed into the pure bliss of unconsciousness.
I awoke for day two rather refreshed, albeit pretty sore. I scarfed my oatmeal and coffee then hit the road long before my speedy taskmasters. We had done a bit over 70 miles the previous day, and this day was to be longer. It started well. I decided to wear TWO pairs of my good bike shorts at once – a decision I made for the rest of the trip. My ass pain was rather tolerable for the first hour or so, but it soon became excruciating and maddening, along with my other pains and maladies. Most of the day was uphill through remote forest with almost no one on the trail for the first half. Eventually as I passed the Eastern Continental Divide and the Mason-Dixon Line I saw more folks, but still not large numbers. The scenery was beautiful, but my camera had turned itself on the day before and the battery died. Later I would use my phone sparingly for pictures, but at this point I needed to save its battery. At one point I veered up the trail in Frostburg and up a large hill as I followed some other bikers. At the top I saw no sign of the trail, so I followed some other riders down a steep road to what turned out was their own house. While grumbling a few choice words, I turned around and headed back to the trail, annoyed but half-amused by my strenuous detour – as if I my legs were not suffering enough. Later in the day I met up with Jim and Joe in Cumberland where we rested a bit before tearing into the C&O Towpath.
The C&O Towpath was in much poorer condition than the GAP trail. It was basically like a dirt driveway most of the time, with large remote sections seeming barely maintained. We went as far as Old Town before dark, completing 80 miles for the day. Old Town is small. In looking for a place to camp, we found the former high school (circa 1960), which is now a diner/car shop/beauty parlor. We bought a few small things in the cafeteria and asked if they knew where to camp. The old lady running the kitchen graciously offered up the grounds behind the school for us to set up our tents. It was perfect because when we awoke the next morning it was raining, but we had a warm place to eat breakfast and get ready for a muddy slog along the historic canal. The nice thing about working so hard is that you can eat whatever you want. I had pancakes with a side of French toast.
Again, I fell way behind Joe and Jim. This time by hours. It was chilly, it rained the entire day, and the trail was nothing but mud puddles. It was a rough day to say the least. Joe commented later that this was more like mountain biking than anything else. I rode for a straight 10 hours in absolute agony, alternately cursing at myself to keep turning the crank, or else moaning with my dead eyes blurring the trail before me. I had bags on my hands and feet, as well as a rain jacket, but I was soaked. It literally never stopped raining. Pedaling through mud just zaps your energy. There were no towns to cross. Almost no one else on the trail. I just had to make it to Williamsport to meet the guys. The plan was to go further from there, but I didn’t arrive until sundown: a sad, soggy pile of wretchedness. I called them on my cell phone and eventually made it the mile to the Red Roof Inn where they had a room.
Apparently the check-in girl was another kindly Marylander and insisted we could take our muddy bikes into our motel room. We put down tarps, but there was no containing the mess. I ate then took one of the best hot showers of my life before leaving my aching body for the subconscious treats and torments that sleep provides. In the middle of the night Joe woke up with me palming his bald head in my hands, apparently squeezing it the way you would a melon at the market. I have no explanation for this, but I find it endlessly amusing.
We had considered calling off the trip briefly because the day had been rough for all of us, and because rain was in the forecast again. However, we instead decided to break up the remaining 100 miles into two days and stick it out. Day three would take us 45 miles to Brunswick, a small railroad town. Luckily it was overcast but never really rained all day. Nevertheless, the trail was still a muddy wreck, and there was even a detour onto the roads that added some mileage and climbing. The day before a shot of pain had wracked my knee unexpectedly and now continued to plague me as it swelled up and refused to bend without loud protest. Onward I dripped. I became one with my pain and with the trail, as if flowing forward with the inevitability of water to the sea. The first 15 or 20 miles passed rather easily, though, since Joe rode with me and we chatted for a while. He had taken what he thought was a minor spill the day before, but now his leg was injured and he was going easy on it for a bit. Jim, on the other hand, was never seen again. He left a message that he blew through Brunswick and was going to try to finish that day. Unfortunately, he ended up throwing his crank bolt at mile 17. He camped around there, then single-pedaled his way to D.C. the next day.
Joe and I stayed at a hotel two miles off the towpath on the fourth night after being the sole patrons at “El Sloppy Tacos.” The ride to the hotel was not what you want at the end of the day, since it pretty much was all uphill. Every time I thought the climbing would end, we’d turn another corner and it would continue. Finally we got to this place that looked like a nursing home converted to hotel/diner. Even our rooms had this vibe about them, with concrete walls painted white and large showers to accommodate wheelchairs. Apparently it is now mainly a hotel for railroad workers. We got some food at a grocery nearby, and even found a car wash before again parking our bikes in the tiny room.
The next morning we got a relatively early start and hit the still muddy trail with the end in sight. Fortunately, this day featured several sections of trail that were again the packed limestone like in PA. Those bits were heavenly most of the time, but they did tend to have many seriously washouts and very rough patches. We again saw few people this day until close to D.C. Many parts along the C&O were gorgeous, and this day’s backdrop was no exception. There were plenty more locks, aqueducts, historical lockhouses, and wildlife areas. On this trip I saw so much wildlife, including: snakes, turtles, muskrats, snowy egrets, great blue herons, a fox, mallards with ducklings, indigo buntings, orioles, vultures, turkeys, squirrels, millions of deer, and millions of Canadian geese with their goslings. At one point I came about an inch from hitting a chipmunk, and another time a goose chased me for about 20 feet hissing at me.
Strangely, this fifth day did not seem as bad as the other ones and I pedaled relatively strong all day, though I was plenty ready to quit when we hit D.C. It had been a massively grueling ride that left me limping and sore. We finished it all in four and a half days, which is not bad at all for a total of 335 miles. Joe’s wife, Kristen, was nice enough to pick us up and we ended up going out to the world’s worst Chinese buffet that night, then got some stale beers next door. I liked the buffet, though, because I was ravenously hungry, and because the clientele were entertaining. A greasy older gentleman was there holding each shrimp at arm’s length and speaking softly to it before eating it. Aside from the shrimp talker, there were hand-holding, googly-eyed lovers rubbing noses and large black ladies in leopard print overcoats unsure of whether this buffet would serve their culinary needs. Then a group of young guys walked in past the tired row of silent munching men, wearing clothes so fashionable you’d think they were in a band, except they were all clownishly mall-groomed to be the perfect pre-fab ruffians. These displays, as well as the memorable experience of food far below mediocre, made this stop very worthwhile for me.
The next day we walked around D.C., from the main Smithsonian building to the Lincoln Memorial and had lunch at the Native American museum. The food there was delicious. I had spring squash and black bean tamale pie in warm avocado sauce with a side of grilled corn and green cabbage with epozote. I also got some honey fry bread. This was to be a particularly great food day, though, because later we ate dinner at the Udipi Café in Monroeville, which serves the food of another kind of Indian. This place was in a somewhat rural and out-of-the-way location, and had no real ambiance except that it was full of actual Indian people enjoying all-vegetarian South Indian cuisine, which was probably the best I’ve eaten. It was a perfect ending to an arduous of rewarding trip. I got to see some great landscapes whiling breathing in the fresh spring air, I was able to test the limits of my physical and mental endurance, I spent quality time in the company of good friends, and I capped it all off with a day of exotic gluttony. What else does anyone want from life… aside from the obliging company of a high-heeled Korean escort?





